Fernando de Noronha, Brazil, SOUTH AMERICA
Abras, Marc Fenies
The Surf
Surprisingly, Fernando de Noronha’s main
source of swell is not from the S like most of Brazil, but from the North
Atlantic lows that provide Europe with its surf. These swells have to march
thousands of miles south, helped along by favourable winds and ocean currents.
The island has had a colourful recent history, having been used as a
battlefield, jail, air base and weather station, but has now become a tourist
heaven for divers and surfers. It is never under 2ft during Dec-Feb, and swells
last for 5-6 days. Like Hawaii, the island is the summit of a huge underwater
volcano, rising 4.3km (2.7mi) from the ocean floor. The surrounding deep water
and lack of continental shelf allows the swells to hit with unimpeded speed and
power, jacking up wave heights in the process. The SE-facing side of the island
is too steep and mountainous for any surf, whereas the NW oriented coastline has
perfect topography and offshore winds. The steeply sloping beaches make for some
fast barrels, which sometimes tend toward the straighthander category, but are
perfectly suited to bodyboarders and tube junkies.
When to Go
Low pressures sitting off the North
American east coast generate plenty of 2-12ft NW-N swells between Nov and March.
As these systems move towards the Azores, the swell arrives from a more NE
direction, helped by the prevailing NE trades and Canaries Current, but slightly
hindered by the Cape Verde islands shadow. Fernando de Noronha is also exposed
to tropical depressions as they head from Africa to the Americas and will send
an off-season swell if they develop into hurricanes quickly enough. South swells
hit between April-Oct, but due to onshore winds and steeply rising beaches, they
don’t produce good quality waves, however, it will always be 1-2ft at this time.
Wind patterns are extremely stable, SE is the predominant direction varying from
41% in April to 70% in Sept, when it's not blowing SE it will almost certainly
be due E. In fact for 94% of the time it blows from one of these two directions.
This means perfect offshore conditions on the NW-facing surf coastline. There
are some slight variations at the end of the dry season, (Feb-April), when there
may be NE and S winds. The semi-diurnal tidal range maximum is 2.34m (7.7ft) and
affects the waves a lot, with low tide required for some reefs, while the
beachbreaks are usually happiest at mid.
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